Ever since Valentino left the couture house he founded, the fashion team of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have generally continued in the direction of their former mentor. But this season they decided to strike out in a bold new direction. Chloe Sevigney wore one of their diaphanous, ruffled gowns when she won a Golden Globe a couple of weeks ago, and Rose McGowan wore a slightly different, short version of the gown. So the team has managed to attract Young Hollywood. That may be why this collection featured Pris from Blade Runner style eye makeup, (only in Avatar blue, neon green and vivid purple), as well as shirred silk leggings. We loved the silk leggings.
Many of the gowns were in a bandage style, but done in draped silk. There were lots of ruffles and ethereal silks, which evoked a night in Arcadia. Our problem with this collection was the color palette. Muddy beige and brown, a bit of Valentino red and splashes of neon green did not make for a pleasing whole, although there certainly were some beautiful pieces. The red gown (at around 1:38) was a disaster (it would have been better to take the blindfold off of the model and put it on the audience.) But the gown that follows it, a neon green Grecian gown was lovely and fresh.
Because this is couture, a client could have these ensembles made in any color she likes. She could banish the displeasing combination of beige and neon green and pick a solid color for one of the short bandage dresses. Suddenly, it's simply gorgeous. The team has talent, and they are slowly making their way to where they want to be. Take a look: