Eating shellfish raw is risky since they can be infected with both viral and bacterial contaminants. The bacteria Vibrio vulnificus is commonly present in oysters, but warm water can lead the bacteria to grow rapidly, so the riskiest oysters come from the Gulf of Mexico during the summer months. Most people can eat raw oysters contaminated with vibrio without problem. Those with compromised immune systems -- some of whom do not even know they have health issues -- are at gravest risk.

Two-thirds of the nation's oysters are harvested from the Gulf Coast and about 40 percent of them are harvested during warm months. Half of Gulf Coast oysters are eaten raw, but they are largely eaten in the South. Many upscale seafood restaurants north of the Mason-Dixon line refuse to carry Gulf Coast oysters.

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Ms. Bourgeois is Cajun, and her father, James Sartwell, had been eating raw oysters all of his life. Two years ago, he fell ill after eating raw oysters on his 60th birthday at an upscale restaurant near Baton Rouge, La. His illness, Vibrio vulnificus, blackened and blistered his skin so badly that nurses wrapped his legs and arms in gauze. He suffered terribly before he died, as most victims of the illness do. "They know that in 2010, 15 people will die like my father did even though there's a surefire way to prevent that?" Ms. Bourgeois asked. "I can't believe that's not illegal. Of course the F.D.A. should step in."

Some Gulf Coast oyster producers process their oysters either by freezing, pressuring, irradiating or slightly cooking them to kill the bacteria. Among them is AmeriPure Oyster Company based in Franklin, La., which sells over 20 millions oysters annually that have been bathed in water heated to 126 degrees. Processing kills the oysters but not their taste, said Pat Fahey, AmeriPure's co-owner. "We believe this is the future of the Gulf Coast oyster industry," Mr. Fahey said.