Zoe Saldana took a fashion risk for her walk down the red carpet at the Oscars which unfortunately did not pay off. The gown was made by Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy Haute Couture, who should have known better. The dress features a stunning crystal beaded strapless bodice which would have been lovely with a cream colored satin skirt. Instead, the skirt was made of violet satin which then inexplicably explodes into rows of violet, amethyst, navy blue and black ruffles. The skirt also features slit up the front.
The ruffles put us in mind of a can-can dancer. Zoe is a beautiful woman and this dress did not do her justice. Some restraint -- such as making the skirt into a sleek column and dispensing with the ruffles -- could have turned this into a showstopper. Zoe accessorized the look with a fabulous amethyst and diamond ring and earrings by Lorraine Schwartz.
Ever since Valentino left the couture house he founded, the fashion team of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have generally continued in the direction of their former mentor. But this season they decided to strike out in a bold new direction. Chloe Sevigney wore one of their diaphanous, ruffled gowns when she won a Golden Globe a couple of weeks ago, and Rose McGowan wore a slightly different, short version of the gown. So the team has managed to attract Young Hollywood. That may be why this collection featured Pris from Blade Runner style eye makeup, (only in Avatar blue, neon green and vivid purple), as well as shirred silk leggings. We loved the silk leggings.
Many of the gowns were in a bandage style, but done in draped silk. There were lots of ruffles and ethereal silks, which evoked a night in Arcadia. Our problem with this collection was the color palette. Muddy beige and brown, a bit of Valentino red and splashes of neon green did not make for a pleasing whole, although there certainly were some beautiful pieces. The red gown (at around 1:38) was a disaster (it would have been better to take the blindfold off of the model and put it on the audience.) But the gown that follows it, a neon green Grecian gown was lovely and fresh.
Because this is couture, a client could have these ensembles made in any color she likes. She could banish the displeasing combination of beige and neon green and pick a solid color for one of the short bandage dresses. Suddenly, it's simply gorgeous. The team has talent, and they are slowly making their way to where they want to be. Take a look:
Jean Paul Gaultier hasn't been to Mexico in twenty years. But he has such fond memories of the country he used it as his inspiration for this very entertaining couture show, which featured some ridiculously over the top presentations, some impeccably tailored suits and jackets and some gorgeous gowns, which were topped off either with Mayan headdresses or giant woven sombreros.
Gaultier showed off his eye for detail with intricate woven leather and silk embellishments and palm-frond hats. The patterned leggings were adorable. French singer Arielle Dombasle (who was born in Mexico) ended the show by lip-synching to her recording of "Cucurrucucu Paloma while walking the runway in a red beaded gown which featured a crinoline skirt and elaborate hat. Take a look:
Giorgio Armani Prive Haute Couture: Spring Summer 2010
Giorgio Armani showed his Armani Prive haute couture collection in Paris, and it was gorgeous. Anne Hathaway, who has worn Armani on the red carpet to great success, was seated in the front row and dished to reporters that she had her eye on "about seven" looks from the collection. Anne said "I have a few events in mind, and if Mr. Armani would be generous enough, I'd love to wear them." Surely Anne will be presenting at the Oscars this year; she has already been named as the presenter of the nominations on Tuesday, February 2nd.
The show had a lunar theme, featuring the shape of the crescent moon as the backdrop for the show. The crescent moon also appeared on jewelry, buttons and handbags. The fabrics for the collection were lovely with lots of silver and opalescent looks, with some black to evoke the nighttime sky. The shapes were architectural, with lots of curves. Full skirts, peplums and incredibly gorgeous evening gowns worthy of Artemis herself were the standouts here. Take a look:
Video: Spring Summer 2010 Haute Couture: John Galliano for Dior
Hilary Alexander of The Telegraph has a first look at the Spring Summer 2010 John Galliano for Dior haute couture show. Galliano showed off his immense talents for both showmanship and structure with an equestrian themed show that borrowed heavily from turn of the century fashions, from 1890 - 1910. The hair referenced both the Gibson Girl and the styles of Marie Antoinette.
Grey streaks showed Galliano embracing the gray hair trend seen on youthful hipsters in London lately. The fitted jackets, peplums and lengthy, pegged skirts were flattering and absolutely gorgeous. The evening gowns were fit for either a Cecil Beaton formal portrait or in some cases an evening at Versailles with Empress Eugenie. Take a look:
Giorgio Armani Denies He's Selling Company or Retiring
In a new interview Giorgio Armani denies that he's getting ready to retire or that he's considering selling his company.
"I will never sell because I don't need to and I don't want to," he told Italy's Corriere della Sera newspaper in an interview published on the day of the autumn/winter menswear show for his Emporio Armani line.
"And I'm not stepping aside either, as long as I can, touch wood, keep up this pace," he added.
"I don't give a damn about a super-golden pension, I wouldn't know what to do with it."
The white-haired designer who started his own collection over 30 years ago is one of the best-known designers in the global fashion industry and his business also takes in interior design, hotels and perfumes.
"This is my life, I don't have any other and I don't want any other. If I could, the only thing I would change is my age," he told Corriere della Sera.
Armani told the newspaper that the hotel he designed in Dubai's Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest tower, was "a special thing ... a sort of monument to what I have done in my life."
The hotel spans 36 floors and includes five restaurants, Armani said.
The Armani empire generates $2.4 billion a year in sales.
Armani is 75 years old and he seems quite determined not to retire any time soon. Karl Lagerfeld has expressed similar sentiments.
In this video you can see the seamstresses of Maison Martin Margiela working with all kinds of materials to make the design house's famous creations. The dedicated artisans use everything you can think of -- laminated playing cards, fake hair, fake jewels, feathers, bungee cords and broken pieces of plastic in their search for the perfect, unusual creation.
Martin himself may have left, but his well-trained staff carries on without him. Take a look:
Lara Stone is on the front cover of Vogue UK's December issue wearing a Dior Haute Couture white tulle corset dres. She was photographed by Mario Testino. Vogue UK calls Lara the "girl of the year" which is appropriate since Lara Stone has been talked about everywhere this year.
Fashion Week Daily reports that Jean Paul
Gaultier is going to be leaving Hermes. Reports say that he will resign from the company and that his last collection will be shown in Paris in October. Gaultier has been the creative director at Hermes for six years and has produced ready to wear and haute couture collections for the company.
Gaultier's accomplished tenure at Hermes has been governed by critical runway acclaim and tremendous profitability, cementing the brand's enviable status as one of the most recession-proof luxury houses. In July, the company released exceptionally positive earnings reports, announcing a 12% increase in second-quarter sales ($607.4 million at current exchange) in the 3 months ending June 30. Leather goods were up 33.4%; ready-to-wear and fashion increased by 12.7%.
Hermes' courtship of Gaultier began in June 1999, when the brand invested $23 million into the designer's eponymous collection for a 35% stake. "I believe," said Hermes' then-CEO Jean-Louis Dumas at the time, "that Gaultier has the capacity to be what Hermès has become."
Gaultier began his career in 1970 with an after-school job at Pierre Cardin, and in 1978, he received financial backing to launch his own line. Gaultier has worked extensively with Hollywood and its starlets, from outfitting Madonna in her 1990 "Blonde Ambition" tour to dressing Marion Cotillard in a pailette-encrusted white gown for the 2008 Oscars, where she took home the Best Actress statue for La Vie en Rose.
We're not sure why Gaultier would be leaving Hermes given how successful his tenure there has been, but no doubt more information will trickle out. It always does. Hermes has refused to confirm the report so far but many are expecting some kind of announcement at Paris Fashion Week.
The detailed work that goes into creating an haute couture gown is simply amazing. In this video from Chanel, you can see the entire process. First there is the sketch of the gown. Then a pattern is made and the fabric is cut. Two incredibly skilled seamstresses cut, pin and create the gown. They then begin the intricate process of beading the entire gown by hand. Each sequin and bead is placed exactly where it is supposed to be. It takes many days to complete one gown. This is just the skirt from one gown from Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel fall 2009 - winter 2010 collection. It's absolutely fascinating to watch. Take a look:
Giorgio Armani Prive: Paris Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2009-1010
Giorgio Armani turned out an haute couture collection that was sophisticated, elegant and glamorous. Black sequins were key as were slim silhouettes, gorgeous gowns and stylist pantsuits. Accessories included zippers and menswear touches. It was a wearable and sleek collection that will be snapped up immediately by Armani's loyal couture customers. Audience members included Megan Fox, Cate Blanchett, Megan Fox and Isabelle Huppert. Could Megan be developing a taste for haute couture?
Take a look:
Karl Lagerfeld sent out his fall-winter 2009-2010 Chanel Haute Couture collection on a stage of white squares with black outlining. On the stage were four giant perfume bottles. The collection was aimed straight at his loyal couture customers: there were beautifully cuts day suits in tweed and wool and evening suits embellished with sequins. There were gowns for the grande dame, the rebellious debutante and the actress with a savvy stylist. The theme of the evening show was trains or flaps: they worked best on the evening evening ensembles, some of which had charming 1890s silhouettes.
The models all had hair teased into a high pouf in the front, with long lush ponytails in the back. Heavy, winged eyeliner was key. Black lace showed up in hats, fingerless gloves and in the stockings. The models looked unbelievably grumpy, even the bride looked like she wanted to kill someone. It was fabulous. Take a look:
Jean Paul Gaultier: Paris Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2009-1010
Jean Paul Gaultier looked to the cinema for his inspiration for his Fall-Winter 2009-2010 Haute Couture collection, shown in Paris. Gowns inspired by the Hollywood icons of the 1930s and 1940s, trench coats that would look fab on a World War II double agent, and a futuristic look on a model dressed as the robot Pris from Bladerunner all ended up in the same fashion show. Gaultier makes plenty of pieces that will sell, but he also likes to throw in the theatrics to make the presentation pop. Kylie Minogue, Mickey Rourke and Sonia Rykiel all turned up to join in the fun. Take a look:
John Galliano sent out an inspired collection for Dior at Paris Haute Couture week for Autumn/Fall 2009/2010. Working from old photographs of Christian Dior himself backstage with his models, Galliano sent out models only half dressed. They were made up to look like the classic models of the 1950s, wearing The New Look styled dresses. But some were missing skirts, some were missing tops and some of the skirts were see-through, so that the audience could see the corsets and undergarments which provided the underpinnings for those fabulous classic clothes. It was like having x-ray vision at a fashion show. Customers were assured that they can order the fabulous suits and dresses complete, with no missing pieces. The missing pieces were just part of the performance art. And it was just stunning. Take a look:
Christian Lacroix: Paris Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2009-1010
Christian Lacroix presented what may very well be his last haute couture fashion show. His company is in receivership, and unless new financial backing is found, this really will stand as his last show. That is a terrible tragedy for such a brilliant and obviously vital designer. Many didn't believe that Lacroix could even afford to put on a show, but he pulled it off brilliantly. There were many tears in the audience.
All of his many friends chipped in to help. His favorite cafe catered for free. The makeup artists and hair stylists cut their fees and Lacroix paid them out of his own pocket. The location (the Salon des Boisiers of the Musee Les Arts Decoratifs),was donated for free. Roger Vivier provided the shoes. And somehow he talked the administrators of company to pay the models.
Despite all that he turned out a gorgeous array of suits, gowns and dresses in a sophisticated palette of black, white and navy. He is a master. And we can only hope that he can find a new financial angel so that he can once again design such gorgeous clothes. Hilary Alexander of The Telegraph talked to Lacroix before the show. Take a look: